I have been happier the last two weeks in Sedona than anywhere else in my travels. When I left for the Grand Canyon a few days ago, stopping in Flagstaff to swap my annoying solar panel for some jewelry, and stock up on food, I soon began to feel that vague unease, and then near-panic that sometimes takes me over. It is so easy to feel grounded, centered in Sedona - something about the rocks, and the quality of the sunlight there.
Once I got to Sunset Crater and Wupatki Monument and hiked a while, taking many pictures of the ruins, I felt better. I camped in forest land adjacent to the monument, on black cinders in which my trailer left deep ruts. Once again, four-wheel drive is my friend.
But when I got to the Grand Canyon, I was uneasy again and could barely think. My first glimpse of the canyon from Desert View was hazy - nice, but not inspiring. I have seen so many places with similar features, though none so vast. (I got over this by the next day, and can't get enough of it now.)
Getting practical, I found the spot in the Kaibab National Forest where I could camp for free (between Moran Pt. And Grandview Pt., on the Arizona Trail), and unhooked the trailer. It is the most isolated spot I have yet camped, in a clearing amidst Ponderosa pines, far enough off the forest road that you cannot see the trailer. Only one car has tried to follow the track from the forest road (there are several other disbursed campsites here), and it turned around before it got to my trailer.
The wind ruffles the trees gently most of the time; sunlight flickers on the needles continuously. And it is less than a mile from the park boundary, less than 2 miles from the canyon itself, though 12 miles from Grand Canyon Village.
And in this lovely peaceful place, unease still wells up. Not from the place, just from inside. Much of this is the unease of the unfamiliar, especially after having spent 2 weeks in the same place in Sedona, where I quickly found everything I needed and more than I expected. I breathed consciously, listened to Tolle, and lay under the trees to read the park newspaper and study the maps. Feeling more grounded, I went for an orientation drive.
Maps are all very well, but the map is not the territory. There is much construction around the VIllage and the Visitor Center, and the road signage leaves much to be desired. I drove in circles a lot, and couldn’t find the supposed wifi spot, but finally found the other places I wanted. I found a spigot where I can fill my water jugs, checked out the general store and gift shops, and then went to the town of Tusayan (8 miles South of the Village) to the IMAX movie on the Grand Canyon. Way cool movie. Lots of vertigo shots.
Returning to the Park, I looked for the Bright Angel Lodge to inquire about tours and waiting lists. More driving in circles and finding that the map is really not the territory. Feeling determined, I persisted, and eventually found the Lodge, and parking by the train track.
There I had a nice chat about hikes with the guy behind the desk who turned out to be from Duluth. Small world. I discovered that the mule trip to Phantom Ranch was way out of my budget, but that getting a hiking cancellation for a dorm was possible, if I showed up at 5am to get on the waiting list for the day after, on which I would have to show up at 6:30am to see if my name was called.
This seemed quite reasonable to me (to weed out the casual seeker), and much more affordable. I decided to wait a few days, though, and see how I acclimate to hiking here. We are at 7000 ft, and it is a 6-mile hike down (no water available until the bottom), and a 7.7-mile hike up (different path, with water available at several rest stops). The elevation change is 4620 ft. Given how I pant when going uphill at all, I am not sure I can do 7.7 miles up in one day. And yesterday it was 100 degrees down at the bottom, though only in the 70s up at the Rim.
On the way back to camp, I stopped at Grandview Point to watch the sunset, climbing down to the edge to dangle my legs over the side.
Ravens were reveling in the thermals, eight of them gliding around and around, and the occasional cliff swallow swooped by. By the time the sun set I was shivering from the wind, and used the heat in my car on the way back to camp.
The next morning I studied the maps again, and this time the shuttle bus system made sense. I played forensic anthropologist around camp, finding large animal bones (is it still anthropology if the bones are non-human?). The first ones were bleached white, a leg, 3 vertebrae, a lower jay, but then I found a lower leg with the hoof and some fur still attached. Why are bleached bones aesthetically pleasing and furry ones disturbing? It was a deer, and most likely a cougar kill. There are signs on the road warning of a cougar in this area. I’m camped on a kill site! Cool.
My unease of the past few days now completely gone, I ventured out in search of the internet. I found it in the Park Headquarters, after several circles to find the correct parking lot. There is a small research library where you can sit inside, or outdoors in a courtyard. I caught up on reading blogs and felt wordy for the first time in almost a year - as you can see, very very wordy.
The plan is to keep up to date from now on, and gradually work in stories of the past year in between. We’ll see.
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